Monday, March 24, 2008

Recipe: Fish Soup


As a very Cantonese person, I absolutely love soup. I could and almost do, drink soup everyday and I love making soup. Just a vat of bubbling, boiling, heady-smelling soup on the stove is enough to make me smile and feel like I've come home.

I often don't blog Chinese soup recipes or ideas because it seems a bit strange, like making a liquid. I actually think of it as like, or better than, concocting a cocktail. The secret to good cocktails is the combination of the composite, the balance and imaginativeness of ingredients. Soups are no different.

The general and easy-to-understand rule though, is, heavy meat light vegetables, light meat tasty vegetables. What I mean is this, if you have a fish base, you want to use vegetables that have more depth and taste, like tomatoes, mushrooms, seaweed to help anchor the soup.

If you have say, duck meat soup, then your base note is already sufficiently heavy and rich, you need to balance it with cleaner vegetables, like white napa cabbage, wintermelon or the lighter chinese herbs like red dates or lighter flowers like jasmine. Chicken is a medium meat and therefore works pretty much with everything but works best with medium vegetables like carrots and onions.

There are some heavy soup bases, like pork, which will work with strong vegetables like lotus root or peanuts, though they will give you a very murky, dark soup. Then there are strong-strong combinations that are just too strong- have you ever tried a pork or duck-based soup with a heavy herb like ginseng? It's super duper heavy, like an overpowering drink! Some people may like it that way but it's often just too much, unless you're a post-pregnancy, lactating confinement-ee who's trying to like, replace half her lost red blood cells or something.

This is one soup that I jump at making whenever I'm preparing a fish dish, particularly a miso cod. Use the bones from the fish and buy a bit more bones at the wet market. Avoid very fatty fish like salmon, I prefer swordfish or a chinese white trout fish, something with firmer, meatier flesh. Boil the fish meat and bones till it cooks, then pour away the water from the fish boil.

Fill up the pot again and add in slices of ginger, handfuls of cilantro and spring onions to counteract the fish-iness that would otherwise result. Stir in three spoonfuls of Japanese dashi powder and a spoonful of enoki mushroom paste (you can find both at Japanese supermarkets). You can use fresh or dried kombu (kelp) instead of dashi which is the second derivative of either dried kelp, shitake or sardines. Slice a tomato in half, squish it a little and drop both halves in, along with some wakame.

Let the soup toil and trouble over a strong fire for at least an hour (lid the pot or you will lose all your soup, a rather obvious point!), then serve. Or, if you're OCD like me, chill and remove the risen fat and strain for a clear liquid soup before replacing the ingredients and serving.

Recipe: Tuna Sashimi Salad


This is an elegant and simple afternoon snack to make. What you need to get is fresh, large cubes of raw sashimi-grade tuna and marinade them in a mixture of wasabi, soya sauce, sesame oil (just a drop or two), mirin, sake and ponzu sauce. Don't drown the tuna, just a shallow puddle of marinade will do and then turn them around frequently enough in the fridge.

Cube avocado - yes, still on about them Australian avocadoes - and skinned cucumber to the same size as the tuna. Mix the pieces gently, coating the cucumber and avocado with the marinade. Thinly slice spring onions and throw them on top. Sprinkle fried shallots on top of the salad and serve cold.

Recipe: Pineapple Upside Down Cake


After making more pineapple tarts for my colleagues, I was up to my ears in pineapple bits and jam! I needed a dessert to serve for dinner and I had some leftover marscapone cheese after making a tiramisu, so I went in search of a pineapple upside down cake recipe.

Usually my favourite places to search online, other than general and blog searches, are the AllRecipes and Food Network sites. However, I now find that a disturbing number of their dessert and cake recipes start with "1 Angelfood cake mix", which I think is a cop-out, especially with cake mix prices in Singapore and processed food inflation on the baking shelf!

This recipe is a little unusual as it is not your traditional cream-butter-and-sugar together recipe, it calls for the butter to be melted then mixed with the egg, rather than the sugar. (Melting your butter in a traditional creaming recipe would result in the seperation and curdling of the fat and sugar mixture when the egg is added, not a pretty sight!) I was a bit apprehensive but it turned out to be fine, the recipe created a moistly chewy yet fairly airy cake that was delicious and really suited the pineapple flavour.

INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup butter
3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
3/4 cup unsweetened pineapple juice
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup white sugar
3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 fresh pineapple - peeled, cored and cut into rings


DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (205 degrees C).
2. Melt the butter and set aside.
3. Melt a little extra butter with the dark brown sugar and 1/4 cup of the pineapple juice. Place this mixture in the bottom of the cake pan. Arrange the pineapple rings on the brown sugar mixture in a decorative pattern. Set pan aside.
If you use a muffin tray as I did, cut the pineapple pieces to fit the bottom of each muffin cavity. I didn't use anywhere near one pinepple but I suppose you could just create a thicker fruit section to your cake.
4. Stir together the flour, salt, white sugar, and baking powder.
5. Separate the eggs. Beat the whites until stiff but not dry.
6. Beat two of the egg yolks until lemony yellow. Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup pineapple juice, vanilla, and remaining melted butter. Add this mixture to the flour mixture. Gently fold in the egg whites.
Instead of pineapple juice, I used the syrup and some jam from my pineapple jam making, decreased the amount of sugar added and added 1/4 cup of milk to make up the liquid content of having not used juice.
7. Pour batter over the top of the brown sugar and pineapple rings.
8. Bake at 400 degrees F (205 degrees C) for 30 minutes. Let cake cool in pan for 10 minutes then cover pan tightly with a serving dish and invert so that the pineapple side is up.
I tend to find that the worse thing you can do is underbake fruit cakes, especially those with sharp fruit flavours like lemon, pineapple or orange. If anything, let the cakes brown a little in the oven so they develop a proper crust.
9. Serve with marscapone cheese mixed into whipped cream, or ice cream and garnish with mint leaves.

Recipe: Bread and Butter Pudding


Notice how good things tend to come with a B&B....B&B Italia, Bed and Breakfast Inns and the third B&B I like- Bread and Butter Pudding! I'm not sure why I like this classic British dessert, except that my mom did say she had a lot of craving of this when pregnant with me.

By the way...these are my new red Cuisineart ramekins from Corduroy and Finch's crockery sale. I remember when I was younger, I used to dig up "English Teatime" recipes for bread and butter pudding and try to use Gardenia bread to create what was invierably a pretty soggy, fatty bread tart. Well, those days are gone.


This bread and butter pudding is light, yet custardy and I haven't found a single person who didn't like it. I made it for a family dinner a couple nights ago in a larger tray and it was immediately finished and complimented by the older and younger people. The recipe is super simple, quick and virtually fool-proof.

What makes it special is, I think, four little steps that I do different- I used brioche bread, which is richer and softer than regular bread, I also boil the milk with pandan leaf and vanilla beans which creates this gorgeous, heady flavour, I also spill a little grand marnier into the bread and then bake it in a tray of water so that it's kept moist while the bottom steams while the top bakes.


Instructions:

1. Preheat your oven to 180C degrees and choose a container for the pudding that is deep enough for a substantial bite but not so deep that you have to dig around for the pudding.
2. Slice up 200g of brioche bread or pannetone, this is available at Cedele ($7.60) or Swissbake stores ($5.60 but the Cedele one is better) in Singapore and arrange it a radial or terrace pattern with the crust pointing up
3. Add in some sultanas, cranberries and pistachios. You can omit these if the bread already has raisins.
4. Melt 50g butter and pour over the bread, along with 2 Tbsp orange juice, grated orange rind and 1 Tbsp grand marnier.
5. In a saucepan, combine 150ml cream (pure or heavy cream) with 150ml full cream milk, 2 torn-up pandan leaves and 1 split vanilla pod and cook over low heat. Make sure you scrap out the vanilla seeds before throwing the entire pod into the saucepan and heat the mixture to almost a boil, then remove the pandan leaves and vanilla pod.
6. In a bowl, beat together 2 eggs, 2 additional egg yolks and 80g caster sugar.
7. Pour the milk mixture into the egg mixture, while stirring rapidly.
8. Pour all the liquid over and into the bread and push the bread downward with the back of the spoon, so that the bread pieces drown a little in the liquid custard and soak it in. The bread will bounce back up, that's alright.
9. Fill a deep baking tray with water and place the ramekins or cake tin into it. The water bath should cover the bottom one-third of the ramekins and the idea is that the bottom of your pudding will steam in the heated water, while the top bakes in the oven's heat.
10. Use the pieces of the pandan leaves to cover the top of the bread pudding, this prevents the surface from burning and imparts the pandan smell to the pudding, counteracting the egg-iness of the custard.
11. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the custard is set but still soft, then remove, peel off the pandan covering and serve hot with ice cream.


Let me share a secret with you that I discovered after the first time that I made this. You can actually omit the melted butter from the recipe and it doesn't really make a difference! In fact, I like it lighter and with the grand marnier and orange kick, it tastes just as nuanced. This is because soft breads like brioche already contain egg and butter.

Over the weekend, I made it again, this time layering thick chunks of leftover pineapple jam from the pineapple tarts, in between the bread layers and decreasing the amount of sugar from the custard. It was awesome!

Sunday, March 23, 2008

The Best (Sun) Baked Breakfast


Finally a long weekend and my first weekend in Singapore for awhile. I decided to celebrate by actually making breakfast and of course, the good Chubby Hubby tempted us all with his ode to Pata Negra and Butter.


I on the other hand, had been tempted for a long while by these new Australian avacados that are now popping up everywhere in the stores. Unlike their blackened counterparts, these never go darker and yet they ripen into the most wonderful, firm, lucious richness.

They are available at Meida-Ya (for $1.90 each), Cold Storage ($1.80 each) and the Ghim Moh market and Pasir Panjang wholesale market fruit stalls (I forget but I'm betting it's cheaper than in supermarkets). Look at how you can just peel the skin off and it maintains its beautiful shape and turgidity.


I had bought two focaccia rounds from Swissbake at Guthrie House along Sixth Avenue the night before. I'd say that Swissbake is very good for crustry breads but not so good for soft, sweet ones but I actually like their focaccia better than specialty bread stores like Simple Bread.

If you are up for some travel though, then I'd suggest the rosemary or chipola bread from Peck from the Takashimaya basement or else Werner's Oven in East Coast for their 14 different types of sourdough.


Swissbake won out for its convenience of being next to a grocery store, so that I could pick up some goat's cheese, sun-dried tomato and a generous amount of parma ham. I made a relish by blending 50g of sun-dried tomato with a raw, skinned tomato and a spoonful of fig and date chutney.

After baking the focaccia for awhile, I sliced them open and layered butter, seed mustard and thick slices of avacado, then topped it a generous amount of goat's cheese, sun-dried tomato relish and parma ham, before toasting them whole.


I sliced them in half, plated them and brought them out to the pool so that we could eat in the sun. It was a beautifully sunny, bright morning and they were delicious and I think, very appreciated!