Miscellaneous Food: New Zealand, Part 2

Days 3 and 4: Rotorua

Lunch

Day 3 saw us driving into Rotorua, a quaint but surprisingly touristy city, where we had lunch at Relish, a laid-back, friendly cafe along Tutanekai Street, also affectionately known as "Eat Streat" due to the number of restaurants packed in one row.


The king prawns in S's salad seemed small to me, but they were fresh and crunchy, and dressed simply with some crisp salad leaves and soft ciabatta slices.


My chips were somewhat under-fried, as they were a rather pale off-white, rather than the beautiful shade of golden one would normally associate with chips, but otherwise my grilled sirloin was tasty and meaty, shorn of any distracting sauces and with only sweet roasted tomatoes as an accompaniment.

Relish offers simple lunches at decent prices, and their dinner menus look tantalising, so I was slightly disappointed that we couldn't come back for an evening meal.

Relish
1149 Tutanekai Street
Rotorua 3201
Tel: +64 07 343 9195
Website

Dinner

That evening, after a spot of rather lacklustre shopping, it was off to Bistro 1284, a highly decorated restaurant that has consistently been voted Rotorua's best restaurant, and that is frequently lauded for the quality of its lamb and beef.


So it was with some puzzlement that I regarded the starter: squid with Asian greens and a sweet chilli dressing, steamed in a bamboo steamer. It wasn't bad at all, but there is simply an ineffable incongruity at having such an Asian-influenced dish in what is, essentially, an upmarket meat house. It's like going to a curry house and being served foie gras and oysters.


Dining mishaps continued through to the main course, though this was mainly my fault: I'd got greedy and ordered a duo of lamb and beef, served with asparagus and bearnaise sauce, thinking that that would give me two bites at the award-winning meats. Unfortunately, the two cuts of meat were downsized, making it difficult for full justice to be done to them.


S, however, was very happy with her main course of twice-cooked pork belly with spiced apple relish, chilli and coriander rice cake, which was no surprise, as it balanced the tenderness of the pork, the sweetness and tang of the apple relish, as well as the spice from the chilli and the coriander, very deftly.


Desserts at Bistro 1284 looked a little uninspiring, however, so we decided on a change of scene, and landed up at Ambrosia Restaurant & Bar (1096 Tutanekai Street, Rotorua 3010, Tel: +64 07 348 3985), where we ordered the very last chocolate pudding, which was a fairly substantial affair, a dense and moist cake served with chocolate ice cream, a dollop of fresh cream and some blackcurrant sauce.

Bistro 1284
1284 Eruera Street
Rotorua 3201
Tel: +64 07 346 1284
Website

Breakfast

The next morning we got up bright and early to go white water rafting, and we decided to have a big breakfast before setting off, so it was back to Eat Streat, and a lovely cafe-restaurant named, appropriately enough as we were the only ones there at 7 in the morning, Solace.


For some strange reason, even though the size of portions during lunch and dinner is not remarkable, New Zealand breakfasts are enormous, and a solid breakfast is often more than sufficient to tide you through to dinner, unless you have a robust appetite. My stack of pancakes with banana slices, whipped cream and maple syrup was delicious, but oddly came paired with some rashers of bacon, which apparently is also what they do in the US. Oil and fat simply do not mix very well with sugar and fruit, so I can't really understand the logic behind this.


S had a nice big breakfast with buttery toast, fried eggs, and creamy mushrooms, and served with sweet grilled tomatoes. A rich, hearty meal that ensures you start your day with plenty of energy; enough, for instance, to tackle the Grade 4 rapids we were soon to encounter.

Solace Cafe
1111 Tutanekai Street
Tel: +64 07 349 1551

Dinner

After a good three or four hours of rafting, we showered and freshened up, and got ready to head out to dinner. I had made a reservation at the Aorangi Peak Restaurant, as all the reviews promised fabulous views across Lake Rotorua, but I was quite concerned at some of the photos I saw, which revealed tacky 80s decor and crockery. I was afraid the food would be equally dated, and wondered whether I was making the right choice, particularly as there were still so many unexplored restaurants in town along Tutanekai Street.


Being located atop a small mountain does, however, have its advantages, such as being able to watch the local wildlife play and gambol amidst the lushness. We saw rabbits, a herd of deer, and even a stately bull make their way across the meadow that was located just beyond the restaurant's boundaries.


In addition, the restaurant has a pair of friendly alpacas that wander freely about the grounds, and which diners can feed (remember to wash your hands afterward) - I imagine they must be a hit with children, and adults can take in the spectacular view on the veranda, where there is a small gazebo which is, presumably, used for weddings, given the amazing vista of all of Rotorua laid out below.


In terms of food, however, the restaurant had some decidedly bizarre offerings. I do not believe I have, for instance, ever had a duck confit as an appetiser. Although the duck had been suitably slow-cooked, the skin of the duck had not, however, been adequately crisped up in an oven or on a stove, and as a result the skin, instead of being delectably crispy, was somewhat limp and soggy. The salad was fairly fresh, but could really have done with more dressing.


S's starter was even weirder - sushi in a Western restaurant? It reminded me of an episode from Gordon Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares, and I didn't take very much. It wasn't that bad though, and it was the closest thing to Asian food we'd had in a while.


S's fish filet looked much more traditional - floured and fried, served with a white cream sauce and some vibrantly coloured vegetables for contrast.


I, on the other hand, had gone the whole hog (or duck, rather), and ordered a duck breast as my main course, which turned out to be a mistake. Not only was it rather excessive to have duck for two consecutive courses, the kitchen had also decided to give me a second drumstick, in addition to the breast meat. This may have been in compensation for overcooking my duck breast, because I discovered to my dismay that it certainly was not pink, but a rather dry shade of brown.


Dessert was supposed to have been a chocolate fondant, but the liquid chocolate was far too thin, making it a far cry from the familiar, comforting molten chocolate cakes we so often take for granted.

Notwithstanding the spectacular view, therefore, the restaurant presented more misses than hits, although I suppose it is no doubt a romantic getaway on a Saturday night, or a fun outing for families on a Sunday afternoon.

Aorangi Peak Restaurant
353 Mountain Road
Tel: +64 07 347 0036

Miscellaneous Food: Hariann's Delights

I've made my pineapple tarts, have you? I'm only done half, as I made a copious amount of jam this year and even then I wound up with 6 trays of luscious, filled-to-the-brim tarts.

If you are not the baking sort, I have a treat for you. I'm a big fan of Harriann's Delights, a nonya kueh-shop that makes the best Ondeh-ondeh. I tried these for the first time at a friend's home and was blown away by the warm, drippy, savoury gula meleka goodness and the sweet, thin-skinned covering of sweet potato dough and dessicated coconut. They also make a chocolate version of Ondeh-ondeh, which was also really popular.


This business is a multi-generational one, the sort I love because they make everything with such pride and attention to detail. Their pumpkin cake and other kuehs make for great party food, treats and gifts. In the Chinese New Year season, they are also making traditional chinese new year cookies, though I would also buy their kuehs to offer at my home.

The other thing I love about their products is how affordable it is to buy a variety for guests. Their original, chocolate, peanut and yam Ondeh-ondeh are $1.20-1.60/4 pieces and their Kueh Pulut and Kueh Salat are $1/2 pieces. The Kueh Kosui is $1/5 pieces. The glutinous rice and pumpkin cakes average $1.50-2 per serving.


Their Chinese New Year goodies range from the traditional pineapple tarts, peanut cookies, Kueh bangkit and love letters to the more unusual green pea cookies, melon seed wafers and honeycomb snacks. These are also very reasonably priced at $10-12 a bottle.

These pictures were generously provided to us by Sharon, who can be reached at 81748429 or sharon.tan@harrianns.com for orders. She is part of the third generation taking the craft to new heights and she graciously answered our 6 burning questions, which we love to ask of food businessses and entreprenuers. Enjoy!


Tell us about why and how you started this business?

Some 40 years ago, my grandmother sold Nonya Kueh to make ends meet and bring up her two children after her husband passed away suddenly in an accident. When she got on in years, she handed the business over to my father (Harry) who then founded HarriAnn's Delights with my mother (Annie) at the flagship stall in Tiong Bahru market.

By word of mouth, HarriAnn's has since amassed lots of fans and in order to cater to the Today's Customer, we have decided to modernize our shop front and packaging whilst at the same time still continue to produce hand-made and premium quality Nonya Kueh. This decision sparked the birth of the brand new HarriAnn's Delights!

Tell us about your vision for your food or your brand.

To be a leader in the Nonya delicacy market, especially in the perfection of the making of Ondeh Ondeh. And also to constantly strive to deliver the best quality food, beverages, services and value to all our esteemed customers.


What does it take to do what you do?

Must have a great respect for valuable tradition but at the same time be creative and innovative to meet the demands of the modern day customer. [Plus the ability to wake up as early as 4 am to prepare the food fresh every morning, =p]

Who are your food inspirations?

Dad and Mom. Dad for his creativity in his culinary fare - He is always in the kitchen experimenting with new flavours and tastes and surprising all of us with what he can dish up. And Mom for her steadfastness in harnessing traditional methods to ensure the food she produces is authentic and delicious. Together, Dad and Mom have created many unique and popular recipes for HarriAnn's Delights.


Tell us what you like and a personal quirk that you have.

I appreciate creativity and value for money and I look for that in products and services. The vendor needs to have a honest transparency of the products / services provide. A personal quirk that I have is that I drink only piping hot soup. Anything less and it has to be re-heated. This does not apply to any other beverages though. Guess that makes me all the more Teochew?

What would your last meal be?

Steaming hot rice over raw eggs 蛋捞饭. This is a very simple and humble dish that requires the freshest ingredients and the right balance of seasoning. Brings back memories of my childhood and reminds me that food has to be real and wholesome. Great tasting food need not always be lavish...

Miscellaneous Food: New Zealand, Part 1

The end of the year is always the annual high point, not just because it brings year-end bonuses, and presents, but also because it means holidays, and holidays mean vacations, and vacations mean getting the chance to try food in other countries.

This year, we decided to go to New Zealand, which, thanks to commercials for Anlene milk powder, is famous for having "more cows than people". With produce in such quantities, good food can't be hard to find. Our holiday was limited to the North Island; specifically, it was to be a driving holiday, setting off from Auckland, the biggest city in New Zealand and - according to The Economist - one of the best places to live, before heading down to Waitomo to spelunk and black water raft in some glow-worm caves, and then off to touristy Rotorua , with its sulphurous geothermal pools and historic architecture. After some wine-tasting in beautiful Napier, and trout fishing in lovely Lake Taupo, we're back in Auckland and ready to head home.

Although I had no hand in planning that exuberant itinerary, I did take responsibility for planning where we were going to be eating at each stop. I discovered that, despite the amazing abundance and quality of fresh produce, New Zealand cuisine has still not yet come into its own in the same way Australian food has, and there was only a handful of restaurants to choose from off TripAdvisor or Chowhound. In addition, I was surprised to learn that food in New Zealand is, on average, actually more expensive than food here. Of course there are no superstars like Guy Savoy who will charge you your right leg for dinner, but we were generally spending between $75 to $100 per person on dinner (1 NZD = 1 SGD), and even breakfasts were around $20.

Still, one mustn't complain about the cost of a holiday when they come by so rarely, and it makes much more sense to write reviews of the restaurants we went to.

Day 1: Auckland

Dinner

Our first meal was dinner in Auckland, and I thought we ought to start on a high note, by dining at one of Auckland's best restaurants, the French Cafe. Located at the end of a very long Symonds Street (we rather foolishly began at the wrong end and spent the next half an hour trudging down the interminable road), the restaurant is quite a swish affair, with dark leather seats and a well-heeled clientele. Reservations are absolutely necessary, especially on weekends, and we were forced to move to the bar to have our dessert as we had made a fairly last-minute reservation, and had to relinquish the table quickly.


The food definitely displays a classical background, but with updated techniques and interpretation. My starter of gazpacho jelly, for instance, was layered with imagination: feta cream at the bottom, with a chilled, lightly-gelled soup of fresh, clear, concentrated tomato essence on top, in which slivers of red bell peppers and sliced green beans hung in suspension, and finally a ruddy, ice-cold tomato sorbet, into which a thin olive wafer had been inserted. Amazingly refreshing on a summer's evening, with a melange of flavours and textures, I thought this was easily one of the best dishes of the entire trip.


S also enjoyed her starter of seared scallops, topped with some smoked bacon and drizzled with a cauliflower cheese and basil sauce, served in a beautiful scallop shell. Rich, tasty, succulent scallops are always a treat, and I was feeling quite pleased with choosing the French Cafe as our first culinary stop.


S's crispy roast duckling, however, was a little bit of a let down, as it seemed that the kitchen had decided to take the familiar "duck a l'orange" and give it an excessively Asian influence. As a result, the sauce was spiked with mandarin orange juice, a solitary, overcooked bak choy lay bedraggled and limp on the plate, and the entire dish was infused with a rather cloying sweetness. This was our first encounter with New Zealand cuisine's strange penchant for "orientalising" their food, a practice that I find detracts from the flavour and integrity of the dish. The duckling, having less fat than a full-grown duck, was also less moist and a little tougher than roast duck. The sweet potato mash, at least, was good.


Fortunately, my main course of pink roasted lamb, served with roasted artichoke hearts, wild mushrooms, truffle butter, spinach and rosemary rose to the occasion (although I was not sure where the spinach featured) - sweet, tender lamb, served with a rich, buttery sauce, offset by the taste of the soft, delicate artichoke hearts.


Dessert was also magnificent, notwithstanding our having to move to the bar to have it. A small but decadent chocolate souffle tart, served with a cream ice cream and a slice of orange to cut through the sinfulness, was a lovely way to end off the meal, and the perfect welcome to New Zealand.

The French Cafe deserves its reputation as one of New Zealand's finest restaurants, and a trip to Auckland is not complete without a visit.

The French Cafe
210 Symonds Street
Eden Terrace
Auckland
Tel: +64 09 377 1911
Website
(Closed on Mondays)

Day 2: Waitomo

I had originally planned for us to have dinner at HUHU Cafe, a stylishly modern restaurant that has garnered rave reviews on TripAdvisor, but sadly I discovered that the restaurant was completely booked for a private event on the one night we were going to be in Waitomo, so we had to make do with dinner at a neighbouring town, where the food was uninspiringly poor, and best not put into writing.

HUHU Cafe
10 Waitomo Caves Road
Waitomo Caves 3942
Tel: +64 07 878 6674
Website
(Closed on Mondays)

Review: The University Club

You know food is taken seriously in a country when even schools play host to excellent restaurants. When I was in university, a good dinner was when the dining hall hadn't burned the potatoes, but with The University Club, the students at the National University of Singapore (NUS) have no excuse for not impressing their dates on Valentine's Day.


Located in the gleaming Shaw Foundation Alumni House, on Kent Ridge Drive, the restaurant can be a little difficult to get to if you don't drive, although there is a fairly extensive bus network within NUS itself.


The University Club is run by the owners of the Prive Group, so it's not surprising that the restaurant looks fantastic: an expanse of wood panelling greets you as you step out of the elevators, and when you enter the restaurant proper you realise that it's really quite a large, spacious set up.


Cleverly, however, diners are ushered into a smaller, more intimate antechamber where a large window affords a great view of the kitchen, and floor to ceiling glass windows allow a generous amount of light to come through, brightening up the dining room and ensuring that the decor is shown off to its best advantage.


The complimentary amuse-bouche was a little cherry tomato that had been hollowed out and filled with some beef carpaccio. Not bad as an introduction, though the tomato understandably lacked sweetness and juiciness.


The soup course was unusual: I do not believe I've ever had a mushroom consomme before. This was made mainly with shiitake mushrooms, which I think was unfortunate, as it gave the dish a distinctly oriental flavour, almost as if it were a herbal chicken soup. Perhaps something more earthy and robust, like cremini or portabello mushrooms, would have been a better choice.


My main course was a seafood risotto, which is an unusual choice for me since I generally prefer meats, but I'm glad I ordered it - topped with a generous helping of mixed shellfish and molluscs, the dish succeeded because of the rich stock used to cook the risotto. It was like getting two dishes in one: a starchy, filling risotto, and a piquant, fragrant bisque.


The University Club also does a credible slice (more a slab, really) of roasted pork, with a generous amount of crackling. While it looked delicious, it might be too heavy for delicate feminine appetites.


Dessert was a flourless chocolate cake, which was decadent, but rather too rich (someone once told me that that's because eggs and butter replace whatever flour used to be in the cake, which, as Wikipedia explains, is not so different from molten chocolate cake). Replacing the coffee ice cream with something tart might have helped to balance it all out.

Overall, The University Club scores fairly well above average across almost all categories: food is interesting, though perhaps not yet truly exceptional; service is prompt, efficient and friendly; and prices are fairly reasonable. Perhaps it's not too late to be a student again.

The University Club
Shaw Foundation Alumni House, Level 4
11 Kent Ridge Drive
Tel: +65 6779 8919

Opening hours: Noon to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm (Mon to Sat)

Review: Where to Eat in Singapore (2010 edition)

What's odd about this post is that I'm only writing it now, it really should have occured to me that with Singapore's tourism rate growing at 20% and the integrated resorts doing a brisk trade, it would only be a matter of time before I had friends planning end of year trips to Singapore and asking for food recommendations. One of the key attractions of Singapore, apart from the Universal Studios, the Zoo and Night Safari, the monolithic new gaming floors and the property market, must surely be the food. Food here is very varied, both in type and along the price range, so it really depends on what you are looking for.

The Hottest in Town: Andre, 53, Le Bistrot Sommelier

This category might be a bit irrelevant, as you can't exactly swan in without a reservation. In fact, if you're into hip and hot, then you'd better pick up the phone and book now because these places are solidly booked two weeks in advance. 53 is a clean-lined shophouse (think: wishbone chairs in oak) helmed by an unknown upstart Michael Han, a law-student-turned-Fat-Duck protege who markets a nice blend of molecular and substantive. Although I truly enjoyed my meals there, I have to say that lunch was better value than dinner, one does need to upsize the main portion (you pay $5 more) and he's barely changed the menu since the restaurant started.

Andre is the new 53, a schmancy hotelier-melded shophouse of rococo Paris and Danish naked glass lights to feature Andre Chiang (formally from Jaan)'s nouveau cuisine. His meals are marvellous but probably still best described by my mother as "a bit, a bob and lots of flair on the side", expect to pay up to $280 for dinner and $120 for lunch. Le Bistrot Sommelier is the rustic project of Patrick Heuberger, who left Au Petit Salut to start his own intepretation of a Parisian bistro. A little hot under the collar and a little too white in clientele but it's fully booked all-night on a Tuesday and every other night for that matter.

What these restaurants all have in common is that they are helmed by a cute chef, have gorgeous, or at least, authentic-to-some interiors and to be fair, have consistently good food. Why do people go there? Probably becuase they like eating with yuppies and they know they are in for a Really Good Meal. If you can't get in, you can pay more to try the brand names in the integrated resorts, or try Valentino's, a rustic residential area eatery opened by an Italian family of chefs, Osvaldo, a rustic banking area eatery opened by another Italian cooking family, Au Petit Salut, a beautiful house serving traditional European classics in a forested area of old barracks, The White Rabbit, a beautiful garrison church serving modern European classics in a forested area of old barracks, Bistro Soori, a beautiful shophouse serving modern European classics in old Chinatown, Bedrock, a beautiful steakhouse den boasting a mesquite grill and Imperial Treasure's Super Peking Duck, serves gorgeous thin-skinned Peking Duck, truffled egg white and sauteed Sharks Fin with clear consomme in the shopping district in town.

Good for the Soul: PS Cafe Dempsey, Candlenut Kitchen, Akashi

This category is for those who are here with family and don't want to blow a huge amount on food, just have a quality meal or an enjoyable ambience. I don't know a single local who hasn't gone to Candlenut Kitchen and loved it but given the Singaporean bias for imported chefs, this local eatery seems to be flying under the radar. Chef Malcolm won the Miele Guide scholarship for up and rising chefs and his rendition of Peranakan favourites is as clean and refined as they come. I think it's brilliant cooking and you get enormous returns on your dollar. A hearty meal here seldom stretches over $30 a person, save room too for their creative and delicious dessert.

Akashi is the cheap and cheerful Japanese eatery for all those who aren't having a serious sashimi craving and their quick turnaround and sake-d chefs assure you of a fresh and loud meal. Try the outlet at Orchard Parade Hotel for classic broad-brushed Japanese decor and excellent rolls and sets. If you are craving something more raw, go to Yoshida Sushi (but only sit at the bar) or Tetsuya's.

PS Cafe Dempsey, if I were being honest, would probably not be in here if we were just talking about food. There is little to choose from between House and PS Cafe in Dempsey, both are beautifully outfitted restaurants that are a hip treat for the eyes. When the food comes though, stick to staples like the good Caesar salad and gorgeous truffle fries. PS Cafe wins out for their backlit, tropical setting, nestled within the raintrees and their hunky, warm suite of desserts.

Rich, Full and On the Street: Tiong Bahru FC, Ghim Moh FC, Sammy's Curry, Ming Kee Live Seafood

Singapore food centers are our pride and joy, these are not air-conditioned food courts (which are sub-par because they are in the basement of shopping centers), rather, these are in the heartlands of Singapore, usually squared between a housing development board flat and a wet market. Stalls selling roast meats, laksa, chicken rice, ipoh hor fun noodles, satay, spicy otah fishcake, local desserts like the ice kachang and warm ginko nut soup, these institutions are always buzzing with local flavour and great, cheap meals. Where else can you feed a family for less than $15?

I've chosen the two, Tiong Bahru and Ghim Moh which are not quite so heartland and therefore a cheaper cab ride to get to, although personally, I do actually think they've got some of the best food. Be adventurous when you go and if you really aren't that adventurous, then the best food court is in the ION shopping center in Orchard Road, try the wonderful fishball noodles and fried hokkien mee but know that you're missing out on the Real Deal.

Sammy's Curry is also an institution and to be honest, I am not entirely sure it is the best. Most times that I've eaten there, my ears are ringing too loudly for me to tell that the taste is good but I'm told that it is, so who am I to argue? Personally I prefer the pay-what-you-will, volunteer-staffed Annalakshmi or the Chindian Copper Chimney but my family does love the fishhead curry at Sammy's.

There must be as many Live Seafood places in Singapore as there are...I don't know, government campaigns. Most, similarly, are well-publicised but may or may not be all they are cracked up to be (Jumbo or Long Beach Seafood at East Coast being an exception). If you have already done the East Coast trek or are looking for something less touristy, try Ming Kee Live Seafood at Macpherson Road. Apart from its very authentic atmosphere and toilets, it has excellent crab bee hoon with giant crab pinchers and other specialties like coffee-guiness roasted pork ribs and steamed neck clams and garoupa.

Best for a romantic meal:: Andre, Bistro Soori, Au Petit Salut, Le Bistrot Sommelier

Best for a meal with the family/mother-in-law: Candlenut Kitchen and Imperial Treasure Super Beijing Duck if your parents only eat Asian, PS Cafe Dempsey if you have kids but want to maintin your cool factor, Au Petit Salut if your mother-in-law is posh, Le Bistrot Sommelier if your mother-in-law is fun

Best for teatime or souvenir shopping: Black or Papa Pelheta's for coffee, Truffs for local chocolate, Chin Mee Chin for sugee cake, Killiney Kopitiam for local coffee and kaya toast, ETA Artisan Sweets for cupcakes and macarons, TWG and Prima Cafe for copycat historical tea and DIY Singapore food mixes.