Thursday, September 25, 2008

Recipe: Caramel Pumpkin Tart


I seem to be on a roll on tarts these days! I have re-discovered Dorie Greenspan and her rather maternal, comforting recipes. The header to this recipe said that this was no wishy-washy pumpkin pie and that's pretty right.

The addition of caramel to a traditional pumpkin recipe adds a lot of punch and a deep jazzy depth to the taste of this tart filling. I like it a lot, I'm absolutely going to make this at Christmas.

Caramel Pumpkin Tart

200g digestives biscuits, crushed
75g butter, melted
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup heavy cream (I used thickened cream)
2 Tbsp rum (dark rum or port would work as well)
2 Tbsp butter
1 tsp cinammon
1 tsp ginger
1 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp vanailla essence
1 C pumpkin puree or canned pumpkin pie puree
Pinch of salt
2 large fresh eggs, beaten

1) Start with the making the graham crust, as in a prior post, this is 150g or half a packet of crushed Digestives biscuits and 75g melted butter, stirred together and pressed into a pie pan. Bake at 130 degrees for 15 min.

2) Sprinkle 1/2 a cup of sugar into a flat-bottomed pan and let it cook over the stove at high heat. Do not stir. It will start to caramelize and turn amber and bubble dramatically. When you've reached this stage, turn down the heat to medium throw in 3/4 cup of heavy cream. You will see the entire mixture bubble but if you stir it out, it will start to calm down into a caramel sauce. Add the rum and the butter, while continuing to stir at medium heat. This caramel sauce, by the way, is excellent for sticky toffee date pudding.

3) Add the cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, vanilla essence and salt to the pumpkin. I used the scrapings from a vanilla bean instead.

4) Whisk together the pumpkin mixture and the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar. Add in the beaten eggs and the cooled caramel mixture. Pour into the pie tart.

5) Bake the pie at 150 degrees for 40 minutes. Toward the end, you might have to adjust the oven heat down, if the pie looks like it is hardening up well. The top should bake smooth and if you are worried about the top browning, you can turn your oven to a bottom grill heat mode, or cover the top of the pie with aluminium foil (while not pushing the foil directly onto the surface of the pie).

6) Cool the pie and finish with a sweetened whipped cream piping. Pumpkin goes really well with whipped cream. If you find that its hard to get the cream to set, one reason is that you should cool your bowl and whisk. The cooler the bowl, the easier it is for the cream to trap air. You can also beat the cream with some marscpone cheese, for a sweetened and thicker cream. Pipe it in a thick, decorative rim over your pumpkin filling top.

Recipe: King Salad


Colin is back in Singapore for a month! He presently is buried in books, so to tempt him to emerge, I thought I'd try some of the new concoctions I'd been working on.

First up, my rendition of parma-wrapped baguette bread with mozerella, herbs and tomato. This crostino is something I keep ordering at Buko Nero and I keep wanting to try it for myself. I must say that I made a very hearty Italian version, with fresh herbs and cherry tomatoes. Next time, I will do it as the restaurant does, with dried herbs and slices of raw tomato. The only thing I discovered is what a pain it is to have to make these one at a time.


The second dish was a coq au vin, that we'd made the night before. My chicken looks rather purple, don't you think? This is an old, tried and tested recipe, which you can find back in the blog archives.


The third was a very clever salad, which I can't claim credit for. I call it Auntie C's King Salad. King because it uses lots of ingredients that you can find only in Japanese supermarkets, so this is a rather up-market salad. But it never goes wrong and I haven't discovered a single person yet who doesn't like it. That, in the food world, says a lot.


The secret to this salad is that other than the sesame sauce dressing, you use cubes of silken tofu which blend into the dressing to give a smooth, yummy coating to the salad. It's delicious but also very healthy, which is a plus!

King Salad
1) Mizuna leaves (imported and available from Meida-Ya or Isetan, in the chilled veg section) washed, dried and cut up. I usually use two packets of these for 8 people, though you can use just 1 packet.
2) 2 ripe avocadoes, peel and chop into the salad
3) A handful of cherry tomatoes, either whole or sliced in half
4) One pack of Silken tofu, drained and cut into cubes. Add this to the vegetables
5) Kenko ginger sesame sauce, available from Meida-Ya supermarket. You can make your own ginger sesame dressing but this one is excellent. Add in 3 large tablespoons of this to the vegetables.
6) Toss all the ingredients together.
7) Add to the salad a packet of tobiko and ikura (you need to use slightly larger eggs that will give body, not the small ebiko, which tends to go limp).


For dessert, we had panna cotta with peach and strawberry. I discovered lately that panna cotta with vanilla bean goes marvellously with sweet peach juices. It's a subtle yet punchy combination of smooth and syrupy.

After dinner entertainment was a lot of Wii playing. I would put up hilarious photos of Colin and cousin C. swerving a hand-held steering wheel in MarioKart but I don't think either of them want to be profiled in that light!

Recipe: Lemon Meringue Tart


One of my favourite recipes has to be lemon curd. This stems back from college, when my 'big sister' L. used to make pots of home-made curd that was finger-licking good! She's had more of a culinary impact on my life then she'll probably ever know!

Later on, she told me she'd found a secret lemon cream recipe, that could be folded into a thick chocolate mousse, or used in cheesecake. Intrigued, I finally realized what she was talking about, Pierre Herme's Lemon Cream.

You can find my previous post about it
here or look up Dorie Greenspan's cookbook. I decided to go the whole hog this time and make a key lime pie, of sorts, with the meringue.

I was visiting my cousins in Pittsburg last year and made them an apple pie the first night for dessert and a promise to cook something everynight for dinner, upon which my cousin K. not missing a beat, solemnly said, you know... my favourite pie is key lime pie, if you're stuck for ideas tomorrow! So this is belatedly for him, I guess!

Lemon Tart
Recipe from Baking: From My Home To Yours by Dorie Greenspan
Serves 8-10

I usually use graham crackers, crushed and stired together with melted buter to form a pie tart. You can use the recipe below, which make a pate sable crust, more like a shortbread. I like the old-school feel of the graham though.

For the graham crust:

1. Crush half a roll, 200g of digestives biscuits finely with a mortar and pestle. Melt 75g butter and stir it into the crushed biscuits. If you use more butter, it is easier to form a dough, but it's a trade-off in terms of oiliness!
2. Using the back of a spoon, press the mixture into and around the edges of a tart pan and bake for 15 min at 130 degrees. When you take it out, the tart should be harder and dryer but not burnt, nor completely solid.

For the pate sable crust:

• 1½ cups plain flour
• ½ cup icing sugar
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 125g unsalted butter, very cold, cut into pieces
• 1 egg yolk, lightly whisked

1. To make the crust, put the flour, icing sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture is coarse. Add the egg yolk a little at a time, pulsing after each addition and then processing in 10-second pulses once the whole egg has been added until the dough forms clumps.
2. Turn the dough onto a flat work surface and lightly knead the dough until all dry ingredients are just incorporated.
3. Butter a 22cm (9 inch) fluted removable-bottom tart pan. Press the dough into the pan evenly. Freeze for about an hour.
4. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Butter the shiny side of a piece of aluminium foil and fit it tightly against the crust. Bake for 25 minutes.
5. Carefully remove the foil, and press the dough down gently if it has puffed using the back of a spoon. Return it to the oven for another 8 minutes, or until it is beautifully golden brown.


For the lemon cream, you can follow the same recipe given before or use the proportions below:

• 1 cup sugar
• Grated zest of 3 lemons
• 4 eggs
• ¾ cup lemon juice
• 300g unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces

1. Simmer a little water in a saucepan. Put the sugar and lemon zest in a large heatproof bowl and let it sit over the boiling water. Make sure the boiling water doesn't go into the lemon mixture. After 10 minutes, turn off the heat, rub the mixture together with your fingers until the sugar is moist, grainy and aromatic. Whisk in the eggs and then the lemon juice. You can, by the way, use limes or those Thai lemon-limes available in supermarkets, if pure lemon is not your thing.
2. Set the bowl over the pan of water and whisk continuously until it reaches 80°C (180°F). As it gets close to temperature it will start to thicken. This can take up to 10 minutes, so be patient!
3. Remove the cream from the heat and strain it into the blender. Discard any solids. Let the cream stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes, or until it cools to 60°C (140°F)
4. Turn the blender on high, and add the butter a few pieces at a time. Scrape down the sides to incorporate the butter. Keep the machine on for 3-5 minutes once the butter is in to ensure a perfect lemon cream
5. Pour into an air-tight container and refrigerate for at least 4 hours (it will keep in the fridge for up to 4 days). When you are ready to assemble the tart, whisk the cream and spoon it into the tart shell.

This cream texture gives body to your lemon tart. There are three alterations that you might like to consider. One is that I scrape a vanilla bean into the lemon mixture, to give it a kick. It subtlely makes the taste richer and more nuanced. The second thing you can do, if using graham crust, is to put a layer of coconut cream into the tart before layering on the lemon cream. I use the packet coconut cream available in stores. It makes the tart slightly more irreverant and island-y.

The third is the addition of an egg-white meringue. Now you have the tart baked and the lemon cream set and you've assembled a beautiful lemon tart (the lemon cream is just spooned into the tart and doesn't have to be baked again). It might be gilding the lily, but you can beat 2 egg whites with a spoonful of sugar, until they are stiff and glossy. Spoon the meringue roughly onto the top of the tart, going all the way up toward the tart edges.

Pop the tart in the oven on a high shelf and grill it until the meringue starts to brown. Alternatively, you can also use a flame-thrower to give your meringue some colour. When done, the meringue should be firm and have developed a brown skin. The tart can be kept in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Recipe: Tiger Prawn Papardelle


It's been a year since we embarked on the journey of pho for M's birthday. How amazing is that?

This year, we decided to go with a distinctly more Western menu! L. brought parma and melon, I tossed together a salad and D. and I started on our tiger prawn papardelle. I bought a kilo of fresh, large prawns at the wet market in the morning. I'd been eyeing these for a couple weeks and waited to have a worthy celebration.


They are even more expensive than crayfish, though granted, much of the weight in crayfish is from the shell which can't be eaten. You need to pull off the prawn heads (and the whiskers) and shell and de-filibrate the prawns to begin with. Out of perhaps eight prawns, there was one gunky one that hadn't gone to the bathroom before being fished.

D. bought whirls of fresh egg pasta and while that was boiling up, we fried the prawn heads with two cloves of chopped garlic, a cup of chopped onion and some fresh parsley and basil. Then we poured in two cups of white wine and allowed the prawn heads to stew in their own juices. You can add more wine, if you like. Then we added a cup of chopped tomatoes and continued brewing.


While D. dried and ladled the pasta into a serving dish, I placed the prawns on the top of the shells, letting them steam into pinkness. I prefer doing this to submerging the whole prawn so that your seafood stays firm, rather then getting soggy. Remove the prawns, lay them on the pasta and add three tablespoons of regular pasta sauce to the mixture in the pan.

We cheated a little by using regular pasta sauce. You can do it the hard way and add tomato paste and more herbs and another round of tomatoes and it will cook up into a sauce. Then we poured the hot sauce over the pasta and prawns, removing the heads to a dish. I didn't think we'd need the heads but the girls fell on them like vultures, sucking out the meat that had been infused with white wine. I guess since these are large prawns, there's a lot of juice left in the heads.


One great thing to do is actually to roughly tear up day-old ciabatta bread to make breadcrumbs and fry them in oil with thyme. Beware though, you are going to have to add quite a bit of oil and keep frying till they are hard and crisp. Then drain them and sprinkle them over the pasta for a crunchy first bite. It really enhances the texture and of course, the taste of your dish.

This is a really awesome recipe, the sweetness of the seafood tastes great with the savouriness of the tomato and sharpness of the onions, with the herbs to round it all off (and the breadcrumbs for effect and kick!). You must have really fresh seafood though but it is so worth a trip to the market. After lunch we had the cake, the presents and the dog-chasing. Lookee!

Friday, September 12, 2008

Review: Jones the Grocer


There are differing reviews of this place but what amuses me is that no matter how poor people have found the food or the service, this place is packed out every weekend! They are clearly wanting for neither diners nor customers, as the Singapore Australian connection flocks here for their wines, cheeses and family gatherings. I met three of my Aussie friends while sitting here for an hour (that being said, I met even more Singaporean friends in that same hour).


I was here a couple of weeks ago for tea and we had the avocado and salmon tarts, wagyu beef tartare and parma ham with truffle honey. It was all passable, the aesthetics were lovely and generally, I'm not a naysayer of this place. It's not my favourite place for lunch but it is a good place for coffee.


It's the grocery equivalent of Cova in Paragon (used to be Marmalade Pantry) or the Mandarin coffeehouse in the days of yore. I guess people come here and to Dempsey Hill generally to soak in the atmosphere of what'd it be like to live in a first-world food country. And for whatever they don't have, there's Culina next door, or L'Organic down the street.


Their produce is expensive to my mind and largely processed/packed foods (except their cheese and meats section). There are two things that I like here though. One is the white truffle honey, that is quite a revelation and will enable you to make your own truffle hams, fries and mashes. The other is the fresh fruit juice pictured here. No preservatives and no added sugar, just a crystal clear apple or beet or wheatgrass juice. It's meltingly good and ridiculously expensive. So bad that they sell them as shots at the "juice bar".

Jones the Grocer
Blk 9 #01–12, Dempsey Road
Operational Hours:
Mon 9:30am - 6:00pm
Tue - Fri 9:30am - 11:00pm
Sat - Sun 9:00am - 11:00pm
Tel: (65) 6476 1512
URL: www.jonesthegrocer.com